Use equipment from Nikon for wildlife and Nature Photography

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Choosing the Right Digital SLR for Your Nature Photography

It is very true that it doesn't matter what equipment you use -- it's what you do with the camera that matters. However, there is no question that when you're hiking through a thick jungle in the middle of central america you want to pack light. Even though the Nikon D2x has the prestige of being Nikon's premier "PRO" camera, you may not find it's the best fit for your nature work.

One of the first things you need to consider is how you're going to use the pictures. Look up the magazines you want to publish your work. Send in for "submission guidelines" and find out their minimum mega pixel count. The same is true for stock agencies -- browse around and decide which place you'd ultimately like to sell your work. Many organizations have their submission guideliens published on their websites. If you're more interested in learning and doing nature photography for your own pleasure then by all means buy the less expensive models. There's nothing wrong with a camera that takes a 5 or 6 megapixel image. You'll still be able to blow it up to poster size if you want a special print made.

Choosing the Right Digital SLR for Your Nature Photography

It is very true that it doesn't matter what equipment you use -- it's what you do with the camera that matters. However, there is no question that when you're hiking through a thick jungle in the middle of central america you want to pack light. Even though the Nikon D2x has the prestige of being Nikon's premier "PRO" camera, you may not find it's the best fit for your nature work.

One of the first things you need to consider is how you're going to use the pictures. Look up the magazines you want to publish your work. Send in for "submission guidelines" and find out their minimum mega pixel count. The same is true for stock agencies -- browse around and decide which place you'd ultimately like to sell your work. Many organizations have their submission guideliens published on their websites. If you're more interested in learning and doing nature photography for your own pleasure then by all means buy the less expensive models. There's nothing wrong with a camera that takes a 5 or 6 megapixel image. You'll still be able to blow it up to poster size if you want a special print made.

Magnification - Use it to your Advantage

For wildlife photographers in particular, the one advantage of shooting with any Nikon digital camera these days is the magnification factor. Rather than create a sensor the same size as one frame of 35mm film, Nikon and most other digital SLR camera manufacturers decided to create a sensor that is smaller than the 24x36mm standard frame of the older film models. Having a smaller sensor means you aren't going to capture all the information on the left and right and top and bottom of the frame. This may sound really bad... but there is no need to worry about what you haven't captured because the viewfinder has been adjusted so that what you see optically is what is captured in the digital file.

The result is that the camera multiplies the magnification of all the lenses. Nikon's magnification (depending on the camera you use) is around 1.5x. That means a 300mm lens is now magnified to 450mm. This is great news for wildlife photographers. The only drawback is that wider angle lenses (like a 17mm wide angle becomes a 25.5mm not-as-wide-angle lens. However, landscape photographers still have some options. I'll get to those in a bit.

Choosing the Right Lenses

Unfortunately, no one can tell you which lenses to buy or "how to build the perfect SLR system for nature photography." Again, it depends on the kinds of photos you like to take, your personal preference and the market where you want to sell your image.

The great advantage of Nikon cameras is that you can use older lenses on your body. This allows a lot more freedom of choice and means you can get really amazing older lenses at shockingly affordable prices.

I'll give you an example. One of my favorite lenses is a 300mm f4 manual focus prime lens from the 1970s. It cost only $350 CAD (meaning it would be much less expensive in American dollars) and the glass is still ED! Nikon especially developed ED (Extra-low Dispersion) glass to provide pricise optical colour correction. This special glass (not available in all Nikon lenses) provides the sharp, clear resolution required for superb photographs. The other advantage (at least for me since I generally hike to find wildlife) is that it weighs less and packs small.

Another example -- the 50mm 1.4 auto focus lens (that's right f1.4!) sells for only $166 CAD (again, much less in American dollars). It's actually an 80mm on your body. That means you have a prime lens at 80mm that can take pictures in the darkest settings. And, because Nikon has been perfecting its 50mm lenses since its inception as a company (Nikon used to include a 50mm on all its bodies until well into the late 1980s), it's one of Nikon's very best lenses. It's cheap because 50mm on a 35mm camera is kind of pooey. But 80mm on a digial camera is marvelous. edit

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Magnification - Use it to your Advantage

For wildlife photographers in particular, the one advantage of shooting with any Nikon digital camera these days is the magnification factor. Rather than create a sensor the same size as one frame of 35mm film, Nikon and most other digital SLR camera manufacturers decided to create a sensor that is smaller than the 24x36mm standard frame of the older film models. Having a smaller sensor means you aren't going to capture all the information on the left and right and top and bottom of the frame. This may sound really bad... but there is no need to worry about what you haven't captured because the viewfinder has been adjusted so that what you see optically is what is captured in the digital file.

The result is that the camera multiplies the magnification of all the lenses. Nikon's magnification (depending on the camera you use) is around 1.5x. That means a 300mm lens is now magnified to 450mm. This is great news for wildlife photographers. The only drawback is that wider angle lenses (like a 17mm wide angle becomes a 25.5mm not-as-wide-angle lens. However, landscape photographers still have some options. I'll get to those in a bit.

Choosing the Right Lenses for your Style of Nature Photography

Unfortunately, no one can tell you which lenses to buy or "how to build the perfect SLR system for nature photography." Again, it depends on the kinds of photos you like to take, your personal preference and the market where you want to sell your image.

The great advantage of Nikon cameras is that you can use older lenses on your body. This allows a lot more freedom of choice and means you can get really amazing older lenses at shockingly affordable prices.

I'll give you an example. One of my favorite lenses is a 300mm f4 manual focus prime lens from the 1970s. It cost only $350 CAD (meaning it would be much less expensive in American dollars) and the glass is still ED! Nikon especially developed ED (Extra-low Dispersion) glass to provide pricise optical colour correction. This special glass (not available in all Nikon lenses) provides the sharp, clear resolution required for superb photographs. The other advantage (at least for me since I generally hike to find wildlife) is that it weighs less and packs small.

Another example -- the 50mm 1.4 auto focus lens (that's right f1.4!) sells for only $166 CAD (again, much less in American dollars). It's actually an 80mm on your body. That means you have a prime lens at 80mm that can take pictures in the darkest settings. And, because Nikon has been perfecting its 50mm lenses since its inception as a company (Nikon used to include a 50mm on all its bodies until well into the late 1980s), it's one of Nikon's very best lenses. It's cheap because 50mm on a 35mm camera is kind of pooey. But 80mm on a digial camera is marvelous.

Lenses - Pros and Cons

While I can't tell you the right lenses to buy for your particualr needs... I can give you some feedback/impressions about the particular lenses I am using or have used in the past.

Nikkor 10.5mm f2.8 Fisheye: I never thought such a specialized lens could provide me with so much use. For more information, I've written a short article about how to use a fisheye lens in your nature photography athttp://www.naturestocklibrary.com/gallery/2472892

Nikkor 18-70mm f/3.5-4.5G ED-IF AF-S DX Zoom - This lens is all right. I bought it as a kit lens a long time ago and it's served well for the wider range. I wish I had saved pennies and purchased a 2.8 that offered a wider range (like a 12mm to 25mm).

Tamron 17-35mm f2.8: This is a great lens but, alas, I purchased it for a film camera and the magnification on my digital body means that it isn't that useful in my photography right now. I'm planning on selling it (along with my other wide angle) and buying a 2.8 that has a wider range so I can do more with landscape photography.

Nikkor 50mm f/1.4D AF - This is the same lens I discussed earlier. It's small, has a low price tag, allows you to shoot in really dark situations and it's an 80mm on a digital camera. You really can't go wrong.

Nikkor Nikon 80-200mm f2.8D ED AF Zoom - This is a fantastic lens that stays at 2.8 no matter if you are shooting at 80 or 200mm. Again, magnification means it's actually a 300mm zoom. Zooms are great because you can adjust your focus distance depending on where your subject is located. Not so great with subjects that are always far away (like the macaws seen here), but really awesome for docile wildlife like deer. It also has a macro function that works beautifully.

Nikkor 105mm f/2.8D AF Micro, or 105 Micro for short - This is probably Nikon's most used macro lens, probably because the lens can serve triple duty. First of all, it is a macro photography lens and it allows you to take photographs at a 1:1 reproduction ratio (on a 35mm body), which means that a 24 by 36 mm subject will fill the entire frame. Second, it makes a very good general purpose short telephoto lens. Third, it is also at least a very reasonable portrait lens (although, with magnification it may be too much of a telephoto on a digital SLR). I really love this lens for macro photography.

Nikkor 300mm f4 manual focus - While a "prime" lens doesn't offer the flexibilty of a zoom... it's still an ideal choice for getting the best results in your work. This is the same lens I discussed earlier and, considering it cost only $350, it's light & the focusing is so smooth, it's one of my favorite lenses. I never leave home without it.

Nikkor 600mm f5.6 manual focus ED Glass - Again, I paid a lot less for this lens (which is actually a hefty 900mm on a digital body and also has the famous Nikon ED glass!!) because it's an older model and it's manual focus. I spent $1,599 USD - but consider that a newer model would go for at least $5,000 to $25,000, depending on the f stop. Some may argue that 5.6 is a bit too narrow of an f stop but I find the compression with telephoto lenses means that I wouldn't want to shoot a 900mm subject with anything wider than 5.6 (2.8 would make the focus far too shallow on such a far away subject). Although... for closer subjects 2.8 is magic!

In the past, I have also used the Sigma 70-300mm 3.5-5.6 and the Tamron 200-400mm 3.5-5.6 and both served well as affordable zooms while I was learning about photography. I have since sold them to pay for the lenses I currently use.

Lenses - Pros and Cons

While I can't tell you the right lenses to buy for your particualr needs... I can give you some feedback/impressions about the particular lenses I am using or have used in the past.

Nikkor 10.5mm f2.8 Fisheye: I never thought such a specialized lens could provide me with so much use. For more information, I've written a short article about how to use a fisheye lens in your nature photography at http://www.naturestocklibrary.com/gallery/2472892


Nikkor 18-70mm f/3.5-4.5G ED-IF AF-S DX Zoom - This lens is all right. I bought it as a kit lens a long time ago and it's served well for the wider range. I wish I had saved pennies and purchased a 2.8 that offered a wider range (like a 12mm to 25mm).


Tamron 17-35mm f2.8: This is a great lens but, alas, I purchased it for a film camera and the magnification on my digital body means that it isn't that useful in my photography right now. I'm planning on selling it (along with my other wide angle) and buying a 2.8 that has a wider range so I can do more with landscape photography.


Nikkor 50mm f/1.4D AF - This is the same lens I discussed earlier. It's small, has a low price tag, allows you to shoot in really dark situations and it's an 80mm on a digital camera. You really can't go wrong.


Nikkor Nikon 80-200mm f2.8D ED AF Zoom - This is a fantastic lens that stays at 2.8 no matter if you are shooting at 80 or 200mm. Again, magnification means it's actually a 300mm zoom. Zooms are great because you can adjust your focus distance depending on where your subject is located. Not so great with subjects that are always far away (like the macaws seen here), but really awesome for docile wildlife like deer. It also has a macro function that works beautifully.


Nikkor 105mm f/2.8D AF Micro, or 105 Micro for short - This is probably Nikon's most used macro lens, probably because the lens can serve triple duty. First of all, it is a macro photography lens and it allows you to take photographs at a 1:1 reproduction ratio (on a 35mm body), which means that a 24 by 36 mm subject will fill the entire frame. Second, it makes a very good general purpose short telephoto lens. Third, it is also at least a very reasonable portrait lens (although, with magnification it may be too much of a telephoto on a digital SLR). I really love this lens for macro photography.


Nikkor 300mm f4 manual focus - While a "prime" lens doesn't offer the flexibilty of a zoom... it's still an ideal choice for getting the best results in your work. This is the same lens I discussed earlier and, considering it cost only $350, it's light & the focusing is so smooth, it's one of my favorite lenses. I never leave home without it.


Nikkor 600mm f5.6 manual focus ED Glass - Again, I paid a lot less for this lens (which is actually a hefty 900mm on a digital body and also has the famous Nikon ED glass!!) because it's an older model and it's manual focus. I spent $1,599 USD - but consider that a newer model would go for at least $5,000 to $25,000, depending on the f stop. Some may argue that 5.6 is a bit too narrow of an f stop but I find the compression with telephoto lenses means that I wouldn't want to shoot a 900mm subject with anything wider than 5.6 (2.8 would make the focus far too shallow on such a far away subject). Although... for closer subjects 2.8 is magic!


In the past, I have also used the Sigma 70-300mm 3.5-5.6 and the Tamron 200-400mm 3.5-5.6 and both served well as affordable zooms while I was learning about photography. I have since sold them to pay for the lenses I currently use.

Why I LOVE and Highly Recommend Manual Focus

I used to be terrified of focusing manually. On most auto focus lenses, the focus ring is small and more difficult to use... also there's something really easy about just allowing your camera to do the focusing work for you. I was afraid I couldn't react quickly enough to moving subjects and that I wouldn't be as good as my camera's auto focus. Now I see the errors of my ways.

For wildlife (or people), you want to make sure the main subject's eyes are in perfect focus. You won't be able to sell any image if the eyes aren't in focus. If you shoot a subject 10 feet away at 2.8 and use auto focus, the camera will choose the object closer to the camera (usually the nose, cheek, or eye brow... not the eye itself). A 2.8 aperture means that you will have such a soft depth of field that the eyes will appear out of focus. The older (and more affordable) manual focus lenses have the most beautiful focusing rings you've ever seen. I find it much easier to use manual focus on my 300mm f4 lens from the 1970s than my newer autofocus 80-200mm zoom (using the auto focus feature). Unfortuately, I find the focusing ring on the newer models a little bit pooey... but I did want to make the case for why I think manual focus lenses from the 1970s are the greatest things since sliced bread!

Rule of Thumb for Fast Subjects

You may already be aware that your shutter speed should be at least the same as the distance of your lens. For instance, you need to shoot at least 1/300th of a second if you are using a 300mm lens or hand shake will make your picture look really blurry. And anything larger than 300mm should be put on a tripod (preferably one with a ball head for wildlife work). With magnification, you may be able to get away with shooting a 300mm (a 450mm on your digital) hand-held... at 1/450th of a second or higher...)in a pinch... but investing in a good ball head tripod will really improve your results if your lens is higher than 300mm.

Back on the subject of pairing your shutter speed with lens distance... if you are currently shooting P or Auto it's a good idea to change to shutter priority instead. If you're shooting with a 200mm make sure your shutter is set at 1/300 because of the magnification. All modern digital cameras will then set the aperture to pair with the shutter speed. At the same time, practicing photography on manual settings is always a good idea because it will offer you greater control.

I could write for days about shooting nature and wildlife photography with Nikon equipment but I'll stop for now. You're welcome to read more of my nature photography articles online at http://www.naturestocklibrary.com/Wildlife%20Photography%20Articles.

Christina Craft is a professional wildlife and nature photographer living in beautiful Victoria British Columbia. She has a diploma from the Western Academy of Photography where she won the school's highest honour - "Best Overall Student." She also has a master's degree in journalism. You can find out more about her and see examples of her work at http://www.naturestocklibrary.com

Top 7 books of photography on Amazon

If you like a photographer, then you may want to print a copy of this list. What are the most wished for books on Amazon. This means there are probably a book or two on this list that your photographer would love. Save some time by using this list as a list. Your photographer will love you for it.

1 National geographic Image Collection by National Geographic, Michelle Anne Delaney, Maura Mulvihill (5.0 to 5 stars)

Behind the world-famous National Geographic as a powerhouse of photography is one of the most beautiful, largest, most unique and graphic resources on Earth: the National Geographic Image Collection. For the first time, readers will be plumb the fascinating depths of this immense archive since the first photographs collected at the end of the 19th century at the edge of work today.

2 The book digital photography Volume 3 by Scott Kelby (4.3 from 5 stars)

This book truly has a brilliant premise, and here's how Scott describes: "If you and I were on a shoot and you asked me, ' Hey Scott, I want to light for this portrait look really soft and flattering.". How far back should I put this softbox? "I give you a lecture about lighting ratios or flash modifiers. In real life, I just turn to you and say, "Move in as close to your subject as you possibly can, without actually appear in the shot."

3 VisionMongers: making a life and a life in photography by David duChemin (4.9 5 stars)

A book for photographers who have never felt compelled to combine their trade with the world of trade and make the transition to become a professional photographer. More like a sketchbook of ideas and wisdom that it is a system to become rich quickly on photography, VisionMongers takes a look at the changing landscape of photography and travel that can be taken to get there.

(4) In the frame: the journey of photographic Vision by David duChemin (4.8 to 5 stars)

A book about finding and expressing your photographic vision, more precisely where people, places and cultures are concerned. A personal book full of real world wisdom and incredible images, author David duChemin (of pixelatedimage.com) shows you the how and why to find hunting and express your vision with a camera in your eyes.

5 Eye of the photographer: Composition and Design for better Digital Photos by Michael Freeman (4.6 from 5 stars)

Design is the most important factor in creating a successful photograph. The ability to see the potential for an image strong and then organize graphical elements in an effective and compelling composition has always been one of the key skills to take photographs.

6 Book for digital photography Volume 2 by Scott Kelby (4.6 from 5 stars)

Volume 2, Scott adds entirely new chapters packed with plain English advice on using flash, shooting close up photography, travel photography, shooting people and even how to build a studio from scratch, where he demystifies the process so that anyone can begin to take portraits would be today! Moreover, there plenty of chapters on his most requested topics.

7 The Moment it clicks: photography Secrets from one of the world top shooters by Joe McNally (4.2 from 5 stars)

Joe McNally, one of the best worldwide digital pro photographers, breaks new ground by doing something no book photography has never fact-blend the rich, stunning imagery and presentation elegant coffee table - book with the invaluable training, no-nonsense insights and secrets of photography are usually in those rare, best-of-breed educational books.

There are 3 more fantastic books on BestSLRCamera.org. Therefore, make sure you head over there to get the list complete. I'm sure you'll find something to your photographer will love. And guess who gets credit... you.

"I love it." How did you know? »

Debbie Lattuga has a passion for photography encouraging people to express themselves through photography. To learn more about the cameras mentioned, visit his blog to the best SLR. It helps people find the perfect Reflex for them, without all the hassle.

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Turn your hobby into a career with a photography course

We often said that success comes to continue what we want and do what we love doing. If you're stuck in the daily grind, however, and working daily 9-5, this may seem idealistic sense, actually, is difficult to achieve. But for many people, their personal interests and leisure are their saving grace, and it is likely that these unfortunate into their workday envisioned a life where they pursue what they are really interested in. But if you are committed to change and begin a career in something that has really interests and inspires you, there are a number of ways you can get. Online and distance learning is an option of friendly and profitable time allows you to study at home, on your own time, when it suits you, without having to commit to a schedule to the University or an hour of class face to face. These courses allow to study what you love and make the first not to do what you like without having to stop working.

The proliferation of personal cameras on the market today has made photography a popular pastime. Today, most people have a digital camera, with which they capture memories and special moments. In many cases, this casual interest became more serious hobby - equipment, effects and the power of the camera can be intoxicating. Then, why not pursue this passion with a photography course? There are a range of different photography courses:

Digital photography course:.If you love photography but are back to its digital evolution, a digital photography course will help you understand the concepts digital and technical - as well as how to use your digital camera, how to transfer pictures from your camera to your computer and how to print digitally. In addition, you can get advice on what digital camera to choose, and what are the differences between the different models.
Freelance photography:. Photography career, many photographers have chosen the freelance route. Freelance photography course focus on not only on the core competencies of location shooting, current technologies and different styles of photography, but also on the element of the business of freelance - such as negotiating contracts, understanding your market and know how to sell your services. A freelance photography course put you on the right way to turn your hobby into a career.
Traditional photography course:. Often, by combining the use of SLR and digital cameras, these courses of photography are perfect for those interested in art and science of photography. Learn you about light and acquire a solid grounding in the fundamentals of the lens. With the basics behind you, you can decide if photography is just a hobby, or something you are interested in exploring as a career path.

As with any career, practice makes perfect. But the essential understanding is essential to the production of quality photographs. Photography - course you are interested in what stream - is a good way to master these skills. In addition, you'll be doing what you love and make your dream a reality or your passion in something that you can pursue professionally.

Freelance photography is great sense, you can be your own boss and work exactly when you want. Make sure you only get the most out of your passion and professional photography study by a photography course.

Can help you digital photography Classes?

If you are reading this article then good on you, just because you want to learn more about photography and how to develop your skills as a photographer. In this article I'll discuss photography classes and if they are not suitable for you, so please keep reading.

Photography classes can be very expensive and time-consuming, I've been to different groups and different classes of photography in the past and have found that to get maximum of you really need them to make a commitment and waive approximately 3 hours twice a week. Now it is clear that certain classes are longer and some shorter, but in General, most of them take a few hours twice a week.

I must admit that when I started to learn photography that I liked to go to classes, I had to use equipment more expensive that I could never imagine and I also taught me how to use equipment which was great. The only drawback was the price and it was a fair price, there was still much to pay each week, especially when you're starting first and you're not silver photography.

What I say, is that if you can afford to go to a class and then to do so, however if money is a little tight then you have some other options. Could attend a class in College, which is much more affordable, but the quality of the subjects taught in my opinion is not as high. Another solution is the Internet and the library, where most things can be found for free.

The best way to learn in my opinion however is just get out there and start taking photos. Regardless if spoil you or take pictures of detritus simply because these mistakes will help you along the way.

If you are looking to learn more about digital camera apparatus adapted for you I recommend strongly produced by Panasonic Lumix cameras. They have a super zoom 18 x and are the best super zoom cameras on the market

Beginning Photography - 3 Simple Rules

Recently, I returned to the passion of photography. I loved photography in high school and College, but storing my camera in the middle of the goodwill of the adult life. When I decided to look for photography once again, there were a few hurdles I had to overcome. I think they are obstacles that might impede aspiring photographers. I put together a few rules that I follow to break my own roadblocks to photography.

1. Take your camera everywhere. There is nothing worse than see a big bang and realizing that my camera is at home. I wear my small digital camera type almost all the time. I try to remain accessible, so that I can understand and use it at any time. The other day I was in the car and was arrested by a funeral procession transmission. I was very interested by the officer directing traffic, then I took my camera and got a great blow

2. Do not be intimidated. This rule is really important for me as a beginner and a person with a camera "little." The other day, I visited a park to take photographs. I walked in the Park, I saw a man with a huge, impressive, expensive camera research set up on a tripod in nice. I felt uncomfortable taking photos at the same time and almost left the Park. How silly! For me, photography is not on hardware or even the level of skill, it is about using this medium to help me see and seize the beauty of the world. I remain and took my photos in this park. I don't know this as the guy with the camera big got, but I'm really happy with my photos.

3 Move. I had to learn this one the hard way. I tend to look at an object from a point of view and photograph this as an angle. Several times, when I download my pictures, I wonder why I did step move to a different angle. I remembered this rule recently, when I was photographing a sculpture. I walked all around, take pictures from several angles. I finished with many varied, nice, interesting shots.

There you have it. Three simple rules of a beginning photographer "blind". Now, grab your camera and go have fun!

Belinda Brasley is a wife and mother of three children of almost adult living in Rochester, NY. Although his vision has never been as good, it has deteriorated rapidly over the past year. While seeking positive and proactive ways to deal with transition in low vision alive, she hit on the idea of developing a blog to record experiences. His blog, the loss of Vision Gaining Insight, found at http://losingvisiongaininginsight.wordpress.com/

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